Cannabis Light Burn: Prevention and Treatment

Today we will talk about what cannabis light burn is, how it can affect the development and growth of a plant, and how it can be prevented.

A light burn, which is also commonly called a slight discoloration, is a rather serious problem for the plant. The scale of the concern is especially serious when you have numerous cannabis plants growing in your room. Light is one of the main energy sources that allow each plant to develop and grow properly. However, an excess of light can negatively influence further growth.

Cannabis plants use light as food and for additional growth energy, but an excess of it can be negatively affected. Excessive amounts of light and its close placement can lead to discoloration. It is important to know how to prevent and treat cannabis burns if you notice certain changes in cannabis growth.

Light cannabis burns: definition rules

The symptoms of a mild cannabis burn are fairly easy to identify, so anyone can handle this task. This disease can be identified by the appearance of the plant. Cannabis with this diagnosis has the following indications:

  • the plant turns yellow;
  • leaves begin to turn white;
  • flowers turn white.

Next, we will look at why cannabis plants can get a slight burn and how to determine that the plant has received an injury from an overabundance of light.

Bud discoloration

Discoloration of the buds is one of the most common and common signs that makes it clear that the plant has received an excess of solar energy and has received a slight burn. Most often, these symptoms can be observed precisely on the upper buds. This happens because the top buds are closest to the light source, so they are the most vulnerable.

Top 5 Cannabis Seeds to Buy in 2023

READ NOW

Externally, cannabis buds look beautiful when lightened, but if we consider the properties of the plant after receiving a slight burn, we can see that they change significantly. Clarified cones undergo the following changes:

  • the original taste is lost.
  • terpenes and cannabinoids are destroyed.
  • plant properties are reduced or completely lose their original performance.

All this leads to the fact that cannabis buds taste like hay. Excess light can cause not only a slight burn but degradation of some important elements of the plant can also be observed.

Yellow leaves

Light burn weed can also be manifested by yellowing the leaves of the plant. However, this symptom can also indicate other diseases – for example, insufficient nutrient amounts and substances. However, it is still possible to distinguish a burn from a nutritional deficiency.

If the plant has suffered from a light burn, then the desire begins at the top of the leaf. A burn from nutrients and their excess will be accompanied by the appearance of yellowness from the bottom of the sheet.

Light placement

You can grow plants based on the use of two types of additional lighting:

  • sodium lamps.
  • LED lamp.

It is always necessary to follow the recommendations given by the manufacturers. The absence of reflective walls and additional lighting leads to the fact that the plant does not receive the necessary intensity of light energy. Such conditions can adversely affect the level of yield.

Reflective walls

Reflective walls will help improve the light intensity for plants. The essence of their work is that they reflect light and direct it back to the plant. This functionality of the walls allows you to place additional light sources at a higher distance from the cannabis, thereby saving the plant from getting a slight burn.

Overlay lights

It is better to hang the fixtures at a higher distance if reflective walls are used in the room. This will allow the cannabis to receive how much light is too much for cannabis rays from different directions, thereby providing increased intensity. Such manipulations allow the plant to receive an increased flow of light, which helps to increase the level of yield.

Not everyone can afford such conditions for growing plants. These are costly conditions, so commercial growers are most likely to grow plants in such conditions. However, among home growers, there are also special tents that are equipped with all the necessary conditions to ensure that cannabis receives the right amount of energy and other important elements that contribute to increased yields.

Light burn: what is it?

A mild burn is a mild form of lightening of a plant. Cannabis growers may notice this condition by the change in color. Leaves become paler. Growing the plant in an open area under sunlight is safer. Cannabis cannot get burned by the sun because it is very far away from the plant.

Cannabis is more vulnerable to burns when grown indoors. An excessively high heat index is determined by:

  • excessively close arrangement of lamps.
  • bud discoloration.
  • the appearance of a yellow tint in the leaves.

Perhaps outwardly the light bleached buds of the plant look very beautiful. However, cannabis is not grown for ornamental purposes. And the properties of the buds are lost when receiving a light burn. Therefore, it is so important to ensure that the plant receives a sufficient amount of light, but at the same time does not get burned due to an overabundance.

Light cannabis burns: the main methods for determining stress

The early stages of a mild burn are very easy to confuse with other illnesses and stress. So the symptoms of a mild burn are very similar to:

Therefore, it is so influential to make a correct diagnosis before taking any measures to treat the plant and eliminate these symptoms. Incorrectly taken measures and methods of treatment can aggravate the situation and make it much worse.

Evidence of a light plant burn will be the following symptoms:

  • The leaves are directed upwards.
  • Parts of the buds and leaves that are closest to the light source become white or yellow.
  • The leaf turns yellow when the veins remain green.

All of the above cannabis light stress symptoms indicate that the plant has received a slight burn.

Effective ways to prevent minor burns

Experts point out that it is necessary to carry out regular preventive work. It is much easier, better, and more effective for the plant than treating the consequences that were obtained as a result of a slight burn.

KPL

Light burn on cannabis largely depends on the type of lighting used. KPL is considered the safest. Such lamps, even at a distance of 10 inches, cannot harm the plant. Also classified as a safe types are fluorescent lamps and T5 lamps. They do not have much power, so they are considered as safe as possible to provide additional light when growing plants indoors.

LED

Some types of xenon and LED lamps are characterized by high power ratings. Poem To the placement of these types of lamps, even at a distance of 25 centimeters, can adversely affect the condition of the plant, and in some cases even kill it.

The following table allows you to find out the optimal placement of the lamp from the plant, depending on its power.

HPS Distance
150 W 20 centimeters
250 W 30 centimeters
400 W 40 centimeters
600 W 50 centimeters
1000 W 60 centimeters

LED light burn cannabis but are optimal for creating additional lighting indoors with plants. However, it is necessary to take into account the power of the lamp, and, depending on this indicator, you can determine the optimal distance between the plant and the light source to avoid light burns.

Related Post: Top Cannabis Stores in Your Country

READ HOW

Xenon lamps are characterized by high power ratings. In some cases, they can cause great harm to the plant up to its death. But too much distance between the light source and the plant will also not allow the latter to receive the necessary energy flow for normal growth and development.

The following table will show you the optimum distance between the plant and HPS and metal HALDE light sources.

LED Optimum distance between source and plant
200-400W 13 centimeters
400-600W 58 centimeters
600-800W 83 centimeters
800-1000W 90 centimeters
+1000 W 100 centimeters

Manufacturers also provide buyers with similar information. Therefore, you can find out the optimal distance between the plant and the lamp from the manufacturer.

For a safety net, you can plant a plant in a vegetative state a few centimeters further. Next, you need to observe the plant – this will allow you to understand how comfortable cannabis is in such an environment, and then take appropriate measures if necessary. Signs of a struggle will indicate an overabundance of light. In this case, it is necessary to move the plant as far as possible from the light source, or alternatively remove a few lights. As a rule, 100 watts of light energy per square meter will be enough for cannabis.

Use a light meter

A light meter is a special device that allows you to measure the amount of light that plants receive. Such an indicator as lux is used to find out how much light one square meter of a room receives. In different stages, the plant has its own norm.

  • The vegetative stage is from 35,000 to 70,000 lux.
  • The flowering stage is from 55,000 to 85,000 lux.

It is necessary to measure the amount of light in the room with a luxmeter to determine whether the plant is getting a light burn, or if signs of illness are due to other causes.

What about autoflowers?

Autoflowers need a lot of light. The following table allows you to find out about the norms.

Recommended Lux for Autoflowers
Seedling stage 5 000 — 7 000 lux
Vegetative stage 15 000 — 50 000 lux
Flowering stage 45 000 — 75 000 lux

Autos should never exceed 75,000 lux. Most autos will show signs of light burn when exposed to light levels of 75,000 lux and above.

Low-Stress Training

Cannabis light stress training is a special method in which a special bending of the stem is carried out so that the main streams of light fall exactly on the crown of the plant. Special cable tires and wires are used to carry out such a procedure.

Binding method

LST is a method that allows you to control the height and model the structure of cannabis. Thus, positive conditions for growing a plant are created based on the room characteristics. The binding method is cheaper and more commonly used. The plant branches are tied at the sides to simulate the necessary structure and ensure the optimal distance between the lighting and the cannabis.

SCROG

Green curtain is another LST technique. This method helps to control the yield level of the plant. The branches of the plant are bent according to this method. The procedure provides improved crown spreading. In this case, light fluxes fall on all parts of the plant.

Recovery of cannabis after a light burn

Getting cannabis lightly burned does not mean that the plant is unfit for consumption. However, the effectiveness and properties of the plant are significantly reduced. Cannabis buds, after a slight burn, are suitable for consumption, however, the aroma and taste are somewhat lost.

At a higher stage of the burn, the leaves of the plant turn white – this indicates that significant damage has been done. It is too late to save such a plant. Therefore, it is so important to constantly monitor the plant and monitor its condition. This will prevent the symptoms of a slight burn from appearing and avoid the loss of the original properties of cannabis.

Related Post: The Best Cannabis Seeds

READ HOW

When the first symptoms of a slight burn appear, you can remove excess light from the room and additionally water the plant. Additionally, you can install cooling fans – which will reduce the amount of light in the room.

If light bleaching leaves appear on the plant, they must be removed. Otherwise, damaged leaves can harm the rest of the plant and aggravate the burn situation. Cutting off the tops of the plant to treat a slight burn can be done by cutting the tops. This manipulation can be done if the plant is in the vegetative stage.

What can cause a light burn?

The appearance of a slight burn may indicate that the room temperature is high and there is insufficient humidity.

Low humidity

Different stage of the plant requires a certain level of humidity. So, the humidity level should be 70% at the vegetative stage. During flowering, it must be reduced to 60%. Before the start of the growing season, humidity should be reduced to 50%. Improper plant moisture levels can also cause a light burn. To control humidity, you need to purchase a thermohygrometer.

Solution

Growing cannabis outdoors does not cause light burns. Perhaps the humidity level will not be at the right stage, but you will not notice the negative consequences. Growing plants indoors requires extra care and greater control.

Heat

You need to grow cannabis at a certain temperature. The most optimal temperature for this plant is 10-25 degrees Celsius. The appearance of signs of a slight burn may indicate an inappropriate temperature. Plants will quickly let you know that they are not in comfortable conditions.

Solution

Solving the elevated temperature in the room is quite simple – you need to provide additional air circulation. The second way to fix the problem is to increase the frequency of watering, but at the same time reduce the amount of water.

Conclusion

Cannabis light bleaching is not a disease. A similar phenomenon is often common when growing a plant in artificial conditions – indoors. Providing extra attention and supervision, regulating the temperature and humidity levels as needed, and positioning lighting at the ideal distance from marijuana can prevent any challenges that may arise.

Price: from $5

Pack: from 1 seed

Shipping worldwide

Price: from $15

Pack: from 1 seed

Fast ship US only - 1 day

Price: from $80

Pack: from 5 seeds

Shipping US only

Price: from $50

Pack: from 5 seeds

Shipping worldwide

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide

This is a complete guide to growing Gorilla Glue week by week indoors. In it, we go into details of this strain’s cultivation from seed to harvest, using one real-life Gorilla Glue #4 grow journal as an example and occasionally drawing on data from other grow reports.

Canadian (Master, 159 likes, 27 diaries)

“This girl has been a complete pleasure to grow he is very easy very resiting to nutrients and a very hight-quality flower”

We describe a grow cycle that took 14 weeks from seed (10 weeks of flowering) and yielded 159 grams (5.62 ounces) of premium bud. Along the way, we discuss what’s needed to successfully grow Gorilla Glue #4 indoors, how to maintain perfect conditions, and what nutrients and cultivation methods to use.

You’ll see for yourself that Gorilla Glue 4 isn’t hard to grow. She’s resilient to stress and responds well to topping, LST, and super cropping but may stretch too much in flower and needs smart canopy management. And she doesn’t require fancy nutrient schedules to deliver above-average yields.

Gorilla Glue #4 (Original Sensible Seeds)

The GG#4 cannabis seeds are continuously astonishing us with their impressive results! It’s remarkable that indoor growers can yield up to 800g/m2 (2.2oz/ft2) with this strain, and outdoor cultivators can obtain up to a kilogram (2.2lb) per plant. The Gorilla Glue #4 only requires 56 to 63 days to complete flowering after switching to a 12/12 light cycle.

Setup Highlights

For our review, we’ve chosen a Gorilla Glue #4 grow journal by Canadian. The guy uses a 3’x3’ tent equipped with a 400W HPS. It’s a pretty much standard setup, an old tried warhorse of millions of weed growers worldwide.

Even if you don’t smoke much, we recommend starting with a similar-size grow tent because in smaller spaces, it’s more difficult to control temperature and you can’t fit it with a powerful light. And weaker lights produce insubstantial yields of smaller and airier buds. Bigger tents are also more convenient in terms of watering and canopy management.

Surface Area Light
9.8 ft2 (0.91 m2) 400W
No. of Plants Overall Yield
3 15.63 oz (443 g)
Yield per Plant Yield per Watt
5.22 oz (148 g) 1.1 g

Gorilla Glue Veg Time

We’ll start our Gorilla Glue #4 grow journal by describing the plant’s progress through the vegetative phase.

Gorilla Glue #4 is a classic photoperiod variety which means that it’s up to you to decide on its veg time. This particular grower was vegging his plant for 4 weeks and then switched his timer to 12/12 to induce flowering.

In grow reports available online, people veg GG4 for anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks. And even 15 weeks in one case.

As with any other strain, the duration of the veg for GG4 depends on a lot of factors, for example, the number of transplants or the volume of the final pot. But the most important factor is the height of the plant at harvest which is limited by your available vertical space. Please note that Gorilla Glue #4 is a rather leggy plant and stretches A LOT in flower. In this instance, she went from 16 to 68 inches (41 to 173 cm), more than quadrupling in size.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves and start with germination.

Week 1: What Are the Best Conditions for a GG4 Seedling?

A 3-day-old Gorilla Glue seedling growing in a coco/perlite mix

Three days out of the soil, and our Gorilla Glue grow report begins. © Growdiaries © Canadian

There are a lot of ways to germinate cannabis seeds, and even the crudest, intentionally low-tech methods give you good results if you follow three simple rules: moisture, warmth, and darkness.

You may simply germinate your Gorilla Glue bean by placing it into moistened soil about half an inch (1 cm) deep. It will usually take about 3 days to see the sprout. Aim for 23-26 °C (73-79 °F) for best results.

We understand that it’s too much anxiety for a newbie gardener to wait that long without any feedback. That’s why most people prefer to first germinate a bean between wet paper towels and monitor it as often as they want. Good viable seeds can show the taproot in just 12 hours, and then you can put the sprout in the soil.

After your Gorilla seedling has popped above the surface try to make sure that she sheds the helmet head as soon as possible. Otherwise, it will delay growth. Make the outer shell wet and soft, and you will remove it easily with your fingers.

Keep the environment warm and humid, and use a humidity dome if necessary. The perfect relative humidity for cannabis is the same as recommended for people to be comfortable indoors—between 40 and 60 percent. You can go higher than that for the seedling stage (up to 80%), but the more mature your plant gets, the lower the RH should be.

Cannabis Seedling Care: Tips and Optimal Conditions

READ NOW

And when the flowering stages begin for your Gorilla Glue, it’s all the more important to keep the air on the dry side. Beginner growers may find it hard to believe, but marijuana buds can get as moldy as a strawberry or a plum that you left in the fridge for too long. Only with buds, it can happen practically overnight.

In the chart below, you can compare the actual RH in our Gorilla Glue #4 grow journal and the optimal levels that you should aim for:

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide: Realative humidity chart

Actual and recommended RH levels for Gorilla Glue week by week.

In the first week from seed, your Gorilla Glue won’t drink much. So spray the surface or water something like half a cup around the base of the stem every couple of days. Of course, if you have pre-moistened the whole volume of your medium in advance.

If you grow your GG4 in soil, she will now find enough nutrients to flourish. In the grow report that we review here, the gardener used a coco/perlite mix (Fox Farm Ko Ko Bop) with a classical ratio of 70/30 percent.

Coco coir is best at retaining water, while perlite creates air pockets in the medium so that roots have oxygen to breathe. Together they make the winning combo. For the same reason, perlite is also beneficial in soil grows.

Some ready-made coco mixes (like this one) are amended with calcium and magnesium and pre-loaded with other essential nutrients. Others are sterile and so require using nutrients (very small doses at first) from practically day one. Starting from the second week, most growers—no matter what medium they use—start giving their cannabis extra nutrients when watering.

A very important consideration in the seedling stage is the distance from the light. Make sure it’s far enough that the little baby is reaching toward the light but doesn’t get too stretchy to topple over.

Let’s have a look at how the light distance was changing for this Gorilla Glue week by week. (Note that she was growing under a 400W HPS; for other lights, you’ll have to find the optimal distance experimentally.)

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide: Light distance chart

Light distance for the whole of Gorilla Glue 4 grow report.

Week 2: GG4 Grows Huge Fan Leaves

A young Gorilla Glue 4 plant at the age of 9 and 15 days growing in a smart pot filled with coco medium

A vigorous progress in week 2 © Growdiaries © Canadian

In the second week from seed, most of the development is still happening underground as roots spread through the medium in search of water and nutrients. The leaves are growing only imperceptibly. Look at their size on day 10: if the first and the second pair span about the same, you’re on schedule.

The more the surface area of fan leaves, the faster they grow. Until something clicks and they explode, which for this Gorilla Glue #4 happened at the beginning of the third week.

The grower noted how quickly his 7 liters of Fox Farm Ko Ko Bop medium was drying. On the one hand, it means more work for you because you’ll have to water more often. On the other, frequently going through wet/dry cycles gives roots the opportunity to both drink and breathe all the time. Cannabis just loves that and grows like crazy. Install an automatic drip system, and you’ll get the maximum benefit from growing in coco.

Godzilla Glue (Herbies Seeds)

THC – 29%
Feminized
50% Sativa/50% Indica

Gorilla Glue Auto (FastBuds)

THC – 24%
Autoflowering
65% Sativa/35% Indica

However, in this Gorilla Glue 4 grow, all watering was done by hand and starting from week 2, the gardener began feeding his girl nutrients. You should keep in mind that weed plants need more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium in veg. And if you grow in coco, be sure to add lots of calcium and magnesium throughout the life cycle.

It’s safer to start with lower doses of nutrients than their manufacturer recommends. This way you’ll avoid burning young and sensitive roots. Later, if all is well, you’ll get to the recommended values.

Week 3: Topping GG4 And Then Defoliating

A 21-day-old Gorilla Glue #4 trained and overgrowing her fabric pot

Gorilla Glue #4 at the end of week 3 (before and after defoliation) © Growdiaries © Canadian

In the third week from seed, Gorilla Glue 4 looked so well-developed that the grower began to high-stress train her without second thoughts. The purpose of training—both low- and high-stress—is to stimulate side growth, making a bushier and more low-profile plant. It’s of utmost importance indoors where you better keep all the tops at exactly the same distance from the light. This way, you get many buds of the same size and quality.

He started with FIMming. The legend says that this curious procedure was discovered by chance—when a grower “botched” his attempt at regular topping and exclaimed “Fuck, I missed!”, or FIM for short.

When topping cannabis in a usual way, you cut the tip clean, leaving intact two tiny shoots below the cut. These will grow into two full-fledged new apexes (tops) instead of just one.

With fimming, you make the cut either a bit higher or a bit lower, cutting through the side shoots as well. At first, they grow all fucked up and mangled but then recover and—together with the two shoots just below—form four (!) apexes instead of one. And while this process is underway, the lower side shoots also get a major boost.

In the pic below, we have shown in red where the cut for a regular topping could have been made.

GG4 on day 17, befotre and after topping, with cuts and future tops marked

The number of apexes (tops) goes from 1 to 4 when you FIM your cannabis © Growdiaries © Canadian

Several days after the topping, the guy also defoliated his GG4, and rather heavily. The purpose of defoliation is to expose those growing points that are shaded by fan leaves. It’s a perfectly reasonable consideration, but we think many growers get carried away playing Edward Scissorhands.

When plants are stripped down next to nothing, they may LOOK all gorgeous and curvy in flower, suggesting enormous production, but in our experience, extreme defoliation rarely leads to better yields. With that said, the jury’s still out.

USE PROMOCODE GET 5% - WEEDKB5

GET 5%

Week 4: Gorilla Glue #4 Veg Time is Coming to an End

A top view and a side view of a 3-week-old Gorilla Glue, heavily defoliated and tied down

GG4 is topped, defoliated, tied-down, and ready for 12/12 © Growdiaries © Canadian

The grower would switch to 12/12 (for flowering initiation) by the end of the first month from seed. Four weeks is not terribly long veg, but in this case, it was the right move to end it so early because even at this point the plant was stretchy.

The guy had to work now all the time, adjusting the ties and trying to keep his Gorilla Glue stretch from getting out of hand. (Btw, using an HPS with all those reds in the spectrum contributes to stretching.) He was also taking pains not to stress his girl too much by LST because he was afraid she could hermie on him.

He also made a change to the diet by adding GHE FloraNectar Fruit-n-Fusion. This supplement contains different carbohydrates from things like cane sugar and molasses, is rich in potassium, magnesium, and sulfur, and is a good way to prepare for the needs of the flowering stage.

Besides, all those sugars are a great source of energy for a plant that is being constantly defoliated. Remember that leaves produce energy in the form of sugars and starches. If you pluck them all the time, be sure to substitute the loss with something else.

And here is the feeding schedule for the whole of the vegetative phase and the first week of 12/12.

Nutrients, ml/gal Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5
CALiMAGic 4 4 5 5
FloraMicro 2.5 2.5 3 3
FloraGro 2 2 2.5 3
FloraBloom 1 1 2.5 3
FloraNectar Fruit-n-Fusion 3.79 3.79

The nutrient schedule for the veg part of GG4 grow diary.

Gorilla Glue Flowering Stages

To induce flowering in Gorilla Glue #4 (or any other photoperiod strain) you need to reprogram your timer to 12 hrs of light and 12 hrs of darkness (12/12). Some growers start counting flowering time from the day they flip the switch but bear in mind that the budding doesn’t start right away.

Depending on the genetics, it may take anywhere from one to two weeks before you even see the first signs of flowering—the so-called pistils, or female hairs. This process may be even slower if there’s only been short veg and the plant hasn’t had a chance to mature.

Gorilla Glue is a quite fast variety. The flowering stage is about 8–10 weeks long. At least, that’s how many weeks of 12/12 you’ll need. The first one or two weeks are a transition period, and then Gorilla Glue starts to bud for real.

Week 5: Gorilla Glue Stretch Continues

Gorilla Glue 4 at day 29, before and after another heavy defoliation

Gorilla Glue 4 before and after defoliation © Growdiaries © Canadian

At this point in the timeline, Gorilla Glue was the tallest among 4 different strains. Her height and legginess were the reason the gardener had ended the veg so early. He was simply afraid she would otherwise use up all available vertical space and also spread sideways.

He continued with heavy defoliation. When plucking the leaves, he noted their very dank smell. This is by the way how professional breeders choose the most promising phenotypes early on—by rubbing and smelling their leaves.

On day 30, the guy undid all the ties. From now on, the girl would continue to grow untrained. Besides being tall and stretchy, GG4 was also the thirstiest plant in the garden. She was still in her initial 7-liter (1.85-gal) smart pot.

Week 6: After Many Haircuts, GG4 is Still Very Bushy

A very dense-looking Gorilla Glue on days 35 and 43 from seed; no sign of flowers yet

After two weeks of 12/12, the flowering stretch is in, but there’s still no budding © Growdiaries © Canadian

The photos above give you an idea of how quickly a healthy weed plant bounces back after even extreme defoliation. And how quickly everything reverts back to the “jungle” state. Which raises the question of whether removing the fan leaves is worth it in the first place.

Maybe all you really need is to prune the excess branches: those that are too far down the stem and those that grow inside the canopy.

Related Post: Top Cannabis Stores in Your Country

READ HOW

It’s very easy to spot the branches that won’t amount to anything. They’re much thinner; they stretch like crazy and form very long internodes but still have no chance of making the canopy. Their destiny is to remain in the shadows. So why keep them?

Week 7: Gorilla Glue Still Stretches Like Crazy

First female hairs on Gorilla Glue #4 after three weeks of 12/12

Gorilla Glue #4 progress in the third week of 12/12 © Growdiaries © Canadian

Three weeks into 12/12, Gorilla Glue was still focusing on the stretch rather than on producing the first flowers. (Although, those started to appear too—see the right pic above.) The gardener’s job was to raise the light a bit each morning. This was quite an issue because the other strains in the tent were nowhere near as tall.

And, unbelievably, the Gorilla Glue stretch continued for another two weeks until she reached a final height of 68 inches (1,73 m). Let’s have a look at the height chart of this GG4 from seed to harvest:

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide: Height chart

Height of Gorilla Glue week by week.

Week 8: Running Out of Headroom

A side view of a super cropped stretchy branch and a very stetchy indoor cannabis plant 4 weeks into flowering

Super cropping as the last line of defense against GG4 stretch © Growdiaries © Canadian

Four weeks into flowering, the stretch got so out of hand that several tops were growing straight into the light and getting burned in the process. The grower had to bend the tallest tops, using the super cropping technique.

To super crop means to crush a branch between your thumb and forefinger so that the branch can be bent in any direction, including downwards. This is a high-stress training (HST) method and is mostly used in veg for canopy management.

The gardener also suspected that he was feeding his Gorilla Glue too much nitrogen and micronutrients (which contributed to the stretch). So he stopped using both, and now the girl was receiving only those formulas that are needed in flower. Plus CALiMAGic.

Nutrients, ml/gal 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
CALiMAGic 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
FloraMicro 1.5 1.5 1.5 1
FloraGro 0.25 0.25 0.25
FloraBloom 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
FloraNectar Fruit-n-Fusion 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Liquid KoolBloom 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

The feeding schedule for Gorilla Glue flowering stages.

Week 9: The Flowering Stretch is Over

A very stretchy weed plant with extremely long internodes and a closeup of an immature but frosty bud

Gorilla Glue stretch stopped in week 5 of 12/12 © Growdiaries © Canadian

As a high-stress technique, super cropping could have stressed Gorilla Glue and made her hermie, but that didn’t happen. She finally stopped stretching but reached a height of 68 inches (1.72 m) which is a nuisance for an indoor grow.

Even if your tent is tall enough, having a stretchy plant like this leads to lower yields. Here’s why:

  1. The lower bud sites are outside the effective range of the light.
  2. They are in the shadow of the above growth.
  3. The plant has diverted too many resources from budding to stretching.
  4. It spends too much energy on the transport of water and nutrients through too long branches.

For all these reasons, it’s in your best interests to minimize the stretch indoors if you can.

Besides lower yields, the quality of buds is also inconsistent in stretchy cannabis. While the top flowers get enough light to become fat and dense, the lowers are tiny and fluffy. They’re often referred to as “popcorn” buds.

Many gardeners remedy this by lollipopping (removing bud sites and leaves in the lower third of the bush). This redirects the available resources to tops making them even bigger and heavier.

This grower however preferred not to go down this road. He explained that he liked to push the levels of nutrients to the limit, and whenever he went overboard with feeding, the lower bud sites were the first to show signs of trouble. So he left them as an “overfeeding fuse”.

Having said this, we don’t think he ever got carried away with nutrients in this grow cycle (see the chart below). Some people up the doses to 1000 or even 1200 ppm sometimes and get away with it.

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide: TDS readings chart

TDS measurements for the whole Gorilla Glue diary.

Week 10: Getting Resinous and Smelly

Closeups of well-stacked and resinous marijuana buds 6 weeks into flowering

Even the base of fan leaves gets covered in trichomes © Growdiaries © Canadian

After the flowering stretch has finished, cannabis focuses on stacking up the buds and producing trichomes.

Trichomes (people often call them crystals) are tiny mushroom-like glands that cover the calyces as well as little leaves sticking out the flower clusters. Note that the most resinous of strains, such as Gorilla Glue #4, can have trichomes even on those large fan leaves that are NOT in contact with flowers (see the left pic above).

Trichs are choke-full of THC and other cannabinoids as well as terpenoids and flavonoids. The latter are responsible for the plant’s smell and taste. Naturally, when the plant starts to get covered in resin, it begins to smell too. In this grow, GG4 wasn’t the smelliest of the bunch, though.

Btw, the smell of buds depends on the temperature during flowering. When it’s too hot, flowers evaporate their terpenes at a higher rate which will result in a bland-smelling smoke. And it’s one of the reasons why you should lower day temps to something like 23–25 °C (73–77 °F). In this grow cycle, the temps were not quite ideal but at least consistent.

Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal and Week-by-Week Guide: Day and night temperature chart

Day and night temps for the whole Gorilla Glue timeline.

Week 11: Lower Buds Removed After All

Closueps of ganja flowers with lots of trichomes and most of the hairs still white

Gorilla Glue trichomes coverage is impressive © Growdiaries © Canadian

This point in the timeline marks a lull in your activities. You have dealt with the stretch, changed the diet to one suitable for flowering, dialed in all conditions. On the other hand, it is yet too early to start watching the trichomes for signs of approaching harvest. Fertigation remains your only chore.

The only other thing that the grower did for his Gorilla Glue at this stage was lollipopping. He decided that she’d be better off without lower bud sites after all.

Week 12: Sideways and Upside Down

Heavy maturing marijuana buds drooping under their own weight

Gorilla Glue flowering stages coming to an end © Growdiaries © Canadian

By this point in the timeline, you’ll probably start to anticipate your Gorilla Glue #4 harvest time. At least, the specs of the strain that you’ve seen on the product page tell you that harvest is near.

You can start by looking at the state of pistils. These “female hairs” sticking out of buds are white when they first emerge. But by harvest time, they change their color, most often to orange, but more exotic hues are also possible. Anyway, mature pistils also look twisted and dry which signals that your GG4 harvest is fast approaching.

A word of caution: Under an HPS light, pistils tend to look more immature. So inspect your plant under natural light too: the difference may surprise you.

When you see that the pistils are far along enough, you can start inspecting your Gorilla Glue trichomes under a hand microscope. But in this run, it was yet too early.

However, the buds were extremely resinous and so heavy that the branches were bending under the weight. It’s another reason not to let the stretch spin out of control. And when the damage is already done, at least provide some kind of support in the form of stakes, trellises, yo-yos, ScrOG net, etc.

Week 13: Got Milk? What About Amber?

A long conical cannabis cola almost ready for harvest with yellowing edges on fan leaves and a macro shot of trichomes

Gorilla Glue trichomes look almost ready but not quite © Growdiaries © Canadian

Now, when the pistils are all orange, twisted, and dry, it’s time to watch the state of the trichomes in earnest. Because it is them that will tell you if your Gorilla Glue is ready to pick.

You should harvest your Gorilla Glue at the peak of her potency which is easy to determine by the color of trichomes. When they are clear, it’s too early because they can produce yet more THC as well as other cannabinoids and terpenes. The presence of all these substances makes trichomes appear milky/cloudy. And this marks the perfect moment to harvest your buds.

Please bear in mind that the color of trichomes determines not only the potency but also the character of the high. After most or all of the trichs have become cloudy, a few of them will start to turn amber. Look closely at the macro shots above and below to see what we mean.

No amber means that your Gorilla Glue will produce a more heady effect. And the longer you wait and the more ambers you see, the more your Gorilla Glue will make you relaxed and sleepy. It’s because, in amber trichomes, THC starts to degrade to cannabinol which doesn’t so much warp your mind as sedates you.

Mostly clear trichomes will produce a high that is felt mostly in the head and without much body buzz, but it can make you paranoid and can be weaker compared to more mature buds.

The state of the trichomes will also tell you when to flush Gorilla Glue. It all depends on the medium you grow in because, in hydroponics and soilless mixes, such as coco, it only takes one week to flush. In soil, you may need as much as two weeks. So we suggest starting the flush in soil when the first cloudy trichomes appear. In coco and similar mediums, you may start flushing when most of them are cloudy or even when you see the first ambers.

Week 14: Gorilla Glue Harvest

A perfectly mature green marijuana cola and a macro shot of Gorilla Glue trichomes, most of them cloudy and a few amber

After 10 weeks of 12/12, it’s Gorilla Glue #4 harvest time © Growdiaries © Canadian

As we said earlier, in the last week or two before your Gorilla Glue harvest, you should give her nothing but pH’d water. This will give her a chance to uptake the remaining chemicals from the medium and use up those that were already in her system. After a proper flush like this, the smoke will be pure, tasty, and smooth, the joint won’t need relighting, and will leave snow-white ash.

If you dry your cannabis in the same tent, you can cut the plant as a whole and hang it upside down. Make sure to control the temperature and relative humidity. They should be the same as during the Gorilla Glue flowering stages. Another important thing is darkness, and you should probably leave the oscillating fan on.

Related Post: The Best Cannabis Seeds

READ HOW

The initial drying usually takes anywhere from 5 to 10 days depending on the conditions. The longer it is, the better (potentially) the quality, but watch out for mold. You can slow down the process by wet-trimming both the fan leaves and the “sugar” leaves because this would drastically reduce the evaporation surface.

When the surface of the buds is dry to the touch, try to bend the branch. If it snaps, it’s time to cut the nuggets from the branches and put them into glass jars for curing.

Curing serves not only to slowly evaporate the remaining water from flowers. It also gives them time to degrade chlorophyll, sugars, starches, and other organic compounds. You don’t want all those in your smoke because they make it smell like hay, taste terrible, and cause coughing.

Gorilla Glue takes at least 3 weeks to cure properly. This may include the week or so of drying and another two in the jars. However, chemical reactions don’t stop after 3 weeks, and you may find the buds taste better and better the longer you cure them. Curing also makes Gorilla Glue more potent.

The End Result

A weed branch with round compact nugs, yet untrimmed and very frosty, lying next to a pair of garden shears

Gorilla Glue #4 yield per plant is quite impressive at 159g © Growdiaries © Canadian

For this Gorilla Glue #4, harvest time was a happy time because buds were big, very dense, and thus massive. The grower harvested 159 g (5.62 oz) from just one of 3 plants grown under a 400W HPS. The overall yields per watt for GG4 and other plants in the tent were through the roof.

The grower noted an extremely potent high once the buds were cured, and the earthy and flowery smell produced a combination that was hard to describe but very pleasant.

We have analyzed GG4 yields in other grows too and compiled them in a table:

Yield per Plant Weeks, Total Weeks in Flower Type of Light Wattage
53g (1.87oz) 16 10 LED 450
92g (3.25oz) 24 9 LED 400
45g (1.57oz) 12 7 HPS 400
38g (1.34oz) 14 9 LED 400
100g (3.53oz) 14 7 HPS 400
31g (1.1oz) 13 8 LED 340
129g (4.55oz) 18 9 LED 300
76g (2.68oz) 13 7 LED 280
164g (5.78oz) 19 9 LED 340

As you can see, on average, Gorilla Glue #4 yields 81g (2.85oz) per plant after 8.3 weeks of flowering. Gorilla Glue #4 veg time depends on the setup and growing methods, and in our sample, the whole life cycle takes from 12 to 24 weeks, with about 16 weeks on average.

Main Takeaways From Gorilla Glue #4 Grow Journal

Gorilla Glue genetics is strong, vigorous, and easy to grow. This strain doesn’t take long to flower, but you might come across a stretchier (and longer) GG4 phenotype. In this case, we recommend shorter veg.

You can get away with feeding your Gorilla Glue 4 higher doses of nutes, but the nutrient schedule doesn’t need to be very sophisticated to get good results (as we’ve seen in this GG4 grow diary). She’s also a very thirsty variety.

The smell isn’t overwhelming, but you’ll still need a good carbon filter during flowering stages. Gorilla Glue #4 responds well to any high-stress training methods and yields way above average.

As for the quality, the buds have a very complex and nuanced flavor that is not so easy to describe, and the smoke is insanely potent. But it’s what you may expect from one of the most resinous genetics out there. Happy growing!

All images in this post were taken from GrowDiaries, the world’s largest weed-growing community.